Last Week in Beauty #1
Trust is the headline: retailer “clean” claims go to court, Sephora’s holiday spot sparks heat, Gen Z normalizes tweakments.
“Trust & Hype: The Beauty Edition”
Last week’s beauty cycle was really about who we trust—retailers, labels, and voices. Lawsuits are testing “clean/conscious” promises; a holiday ad showed how fast sentiment can swing; and ingredient-rating apps are shaping carts even when the science is… nuanced. At the same time, distribution wars at mass (Target), a cleared path for an inclusive retailer (Thirteen Lune), and a serious “A-Beauty” wave point to where Black founders can win: clear standards, tight storytelling, and smart channel strategy. Layer on AI for small teams and a celebrity launch with real R&D (Dua × Bader), and you’ve got the brief: credibility + conversion.
From Big Deal → Nice to Know
Ulta faces a class action over “clean” claims
Why it matters: Retailer-created “clean” badges may be forced to use tighter, clearer definitions. Brands could be asked to show evidence for claims and explain ingredients in plain language. Shoppers should expect more transparency labels and fewer fuzzy promises.Sephora’s holiday ad backlash—right in peak season
Why it matters: Critics say Sephora’s “you can’t cancel Christmas” gag mocks consumer boycotts and working-class stress. Some creators promoting Sephora’s Oct 31–Nov 10 savings event felt caught in the crossfire. Sephora hasn’t commented. Marketers quoted in the piece warn that “rage-bait” stunts erode brand equity, especially with Gen Z/Millennial women who expect values-aligned messaging. The reaction is split in comments, but the risk is long-term trust, not just week-one sales..Gen Z normalizing procedures (and posting them)
Why it matters: A New York plastic surgeon reports a sharp rise in under-30 patients who proudly post their procedures, from injectables to quick “tip-stitch” nose tweaks, treating clinic visits like GRWMs. The stigma is down and disclosure is now content. Clinics are setting stricter limits for younger patients even as TikTok virality fuels demand.Can Target win beauty back? (BoF deep dive)
Why it matters: Target just cut ~1,800 HQ roles and moved teams around, which disrupts category consistency. Founders report they’re avoiding promoting Target on social due to DEI backlash from their own communities (e.g., The Lip Bar cites a 30% Target decline), so plan retailer-agnostic marketing and be ready to show community safety receipts.Thirteen Lune / Nyakio Grieco lawsuit withdrawn
Why it matters: Relevance Ventures has withdrawn its lawsuit against Nyakio Grieco and Thirteen Lune, saying after limited discovery the claims stemmed from an “unfortunate misunderstanding.” They now say they look forward to working with Nyakio in her role as CEO; actions regarding other defendants are still under review. Bottom line: the legal cloud is lifted, clearing the way for Thirteen Lune to pursue partnerships, fundraising, and growth without litigation hanging over it.A-Beauty’s rise (Vogue): African botanicals go global
Why it matters: Ingredients like qasil, baobab, and safou will show up in more formulas. Founders who can prove sourcing and teach usage win. Shoppers should look for origin stories, fair trade details, and how to use these actives correctly.JolieDen is redefining the braiding salon experience
What’s new: Founder Diessou Kante built a spa-like braid bar—massage shampoo stations, robes, curated scent, R&B—doubling from 8 to 18 stations this year. A client’s TikTok recap passed 3M views, fueling bookings and a wider convo about service standards in Black haircare. Expect more salons to copy the “rest-first” model.Yuka ingredient-scoring app vs cosmetic chemists
Why it matters: Scanning is now part of the shopping habit. Brands should publish simple “Why this ingredient is here” pages and address common flags. Consumers can use scores as a starting point and then check dose, context, and brand explanation.Small brands are (finally) vibing with AI
Why it matters: Expect faster customer replies, better inventory planning, and quicker product copy without adding headcount. The winners will say exactly where AI is used and keep a human in the loop.Dua Lipa × Augustinus Bader launch “DUA”
Why it matters: The celeb-science template is crowding skincare; differentiation = culture + results.Inside Mab’s “aerosol couture” (Dazed)
Why it matters: Beauty art that lives on skin fuels editorial trends and social looks. Expect airbrush finishes and bold body graphics to trickle into campaigns and festival makeup.Olivier Rousteing, unfiltered (i-D)
Why it matters: Build a world, not just SKUs. Founders can borrow that playbook: consistent visuals, a point of view, and rituals your community can join.“Skincare for four-year-olds?” debate
Why it matters: If you touch Gen-Alpha, lead with ethics & education—parents are watching. Kids should skip strong actives and look for simple moisturizers and sunscreen advice.